|Jean Maupertuis was always a wine lover, but it wasn’t until 1992 that he left his career in IT to pursue viticulture and oenology full time. Embracing the movement of Natural Wine, he has ties with Marcel Lapierre (in Morgon) and follows the ethos of the “Gang of Four” in Beaujolais. Maupertuis’s style is to highlight the flavors of the grape and terroir, which he achieves by farming without the use of chemical fertilizers, insecticides or herbicides. The fruit is hand harvested, fermentation occurs with wild yeasts, the wine is unfiltered and has no added sulfur. The whole process is unhurried—Maupertuis likes to take his time.|
Neyrou goes against the grain of many other wines from the Auvergne, a French region that mainly produces simple, cooperative-made wines. This light Pinot Noir tastes of wild berries and black pepper. With 12.5 percent alcohol, it is a red best served chilled—a category that keeps coming up this uncharacteristically cool August. Even the color, an autumnal burgundy, hints at late summer.
Neyrou is a casual wine that is perfect with the rustic cuisine of the
Auvergne, like pork sausage with green (Puy) lentils, or the region’s
famous blue cheese, Bleu d’Auvergne. But it also goes with more eclectic
fare—I recently enjoyed it with a dinner of clams in tomato sauce and