Umathum (the name, roughly translated, means "roundabout") is a technical wizard whose wines rarely contain a flaw. The hallmark of Umathum's wines is their utter seamlessness. The delicate, pure perfumes bait the hook. The initial palate impression is gentle and soothing, but layers of flavor continue to impact the palate. What is impressive about these wines is how little they promise, but how much they deliver; they are not blowhards.