|Jean-Hughes Goisot plants his Sauvignon vines on cooler, north-facing slopes on extremely chalky Kimmeridgian soil (the great classic soil of Chablis). ("Exogyra Virgula" is the latin name for the small, fossilized shells found in this soil.) Consequently, he harvests late and brings in very ripe fruit that benefits from a longer and slower growing season. In fact, of all his white grapes, the Sauvignon is always the last to be harvested. In addition, he is able to systematically put the wine through malolactic fermentation, thus gaining in finesse without losing Sauvignon crispness. A small portion -- one-third or less -- of Goisot's Sauvignon is vinified and aged in oak. The result is at once bright and rich, mineral and floral, with aromas of cassis-flower, mint, and red grapefruit. With a bit of bottle age, the mineral element deepens, and wonderfully fine fruit aromas of fig, mango, and mandarine appear.