Pairing wine with food isn’t always easy for a vegetarian. However, a strategy that often works for me is regionality — pairing food and wine from the same place. While in Lyon recently, I paired the phenomenal Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon with two traditional regional dishes. The first dish was a plate of vegetarian quenelles, oval-shaped dumplings that are similar to Italian gnocchi. Quenelles can be made with fish, meat, fowl — or in my case, just dough served with a simple sauce. The second dish, Cervelle de Canut
— literally, silk worker’s brain — sounds meat-based but in fact is simply a creamy cheese spread that is very easy to make yourself. It is strewn with herbs, garlic, and chives that can be enjoyed on its own or with a crispy baguette. These foods are simple, hearty and delicious, and pair well with the freshness, acidity and beautiful red currant flavors of this Beaujolais. There’s great complexity and just the right amount of earthy notes in this handmade wine, especially at this price.