|While Aubert de Villaine is synonymous with Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, there is no question that at least one ventricle of his heart is devoted to his personal estate in Bouzeron that he bought with his wife Pamela in the 1970s. I think it is partly responsible for Aubert remaining such a down-to-earth personality, when others might have succumbed to self-aggrandizement occupying such a position. Pierre de Benoist, Aubert’s nephew, has been at the helm since 2000. As you might expect, these are well-crafted wines that are often understated and nuanced, occasionally utterly beguiling. The Bouzeron comes from Aligote dore rather than Aligote vert, which de Villaine feels is more aromatic thanks to its lower yields.