Pierre Morey is one of Burgundy’s most highly regarded citizens and one of its most accomplished vignerons. His family traces its roots in Burgundy back to the 16th century and has been making wine in Meursault since 1793. Pierre, who was born in 1948, worked in the vineyards and cellar alongside his father from an early age and established his own Domaine in 1971. In addition to continuing to farm the family vineyards, he assumed responsibility for the metayage (sharecropping) agreement that is father had made with Domaine des Comtes Lafon, which continued until the late 1980s. At that time, Pierre took over as manager and cellar master at the venerable Domaine Leflaive and was responsible for all technical aspects in the vineyards and cellar there, as well as at his own Domaine, for 20 years ending in 2008. Domaine Pierre Morey consists of 27 acres of vineyards in Meursault, Monthelie, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet, which have been cultivated organically since 1992 and biodynamically since 1997. In 1992, after the metayage agreement with Lafon had expired, Pierre established a small negociant company called Morey-Blanc, which features appellations that complement those of his Domaine, including Aloxe-Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Montrachet, and Saint-Aubin. For each of these chosen appellations, fruit and musts are purchased from excellent growers under rigorous terms and conditions and the wines are made in the Morey cellars, where they are fashioned in the same style as the Domaine wines. Pierre’s daughter, Anne Morey, is co-manager for Morey-Blanc, and also at Domaine Pierre Morey. Their wines are known and prized for their purity, elegance, concentration and longevity. All the fruit for the Morey wines is hand-harvested and transported directly to the winery where it is sorted. The white grapes are lightly crushed before a delicate pneumatic pressing. The musts are then held in tank for 12 to 24 hours during which a light debourbage is done while carefully keeping the best lees, which are the main source of nourishment for the naturally occurring yeasts. The musts are then transferred to oak barrels where alcoholic fermentation takes place. After this first fermentation, batonnage is done two or three times a week until about Christmas, sometimes until the beginning of the malolactic fermentation. The first racking takes place in the fall and the wine is then put again on the fine lees. Maturation lasts, depending on the vintage, from 12 to 16 months for the Bourgogne Aligote, and 16-20 months for the Chardonnays. There is no new oak in the regional appellations, 20-30% in the village wines, 30-40% in the Premiers Crus and 45-50% in the Grands Crus. Eventual collages are scrupulously chosen. Filtration is not systematic and it depends on the vintage. Bottling is done by gravity. The red grapes are normally 100% de-stemmed before being placed in oak tanks. Natural fermentation, without addition of yeasts, begins after a few days of cuvaison with light punch-downs and remontages. The temperature is controlled during the whole fermentation: a bit low at the beginning to control color and tannin extraction. Fermentation occurs rather quickly thanks to the quality of the natural occuring yeasts. At the end of the fermentation, the temperature is increased naturally and kept higher for a while in order to fix the color and the tannins, before de-vatting and transferring the wine oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation generally takes place at the beginning of spring, thanks to subterranean cellars that are quite cool during the winter months. The first soutirage (with the addition of very small amount of sulfites for protection) is done as late as possible, after one year more or less. The wines undergo a maturation period of 15 to 20 months, depending on the vintage. Up to 10% new oak is used in the regional appellations, 30-35% in the village wines, 45-65% in the Premiers Crus. Bottling is done by gravity after assemblage, usually without collage or filtration.
| Wine Advocate 93 points (Aug 2012)
The 2010 Meursault Perrieres bursts from glass with freshly cut flowers, spices and crushed rocks. Crystalline purity is the essence of the Perrieres, while the fruit lies a bit on the background. All of the elements meld together beautifully on the textured, inviting finish. The Perrieres continues to blossom in the glass as it shows off its superb purity, class and pedigree. This is an unbelievably vivid and inviting wine. All it needs is another few years. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.