|Wine Advocate: The 2009 Dogliani Papa Celso is wonderfully complete. It has an extra dimension of roundness that makes it so immensely appealing. In many years the Papa Celso is a big wine with more of a profile that tends towards black fruit, but the 2009 is a bit more feminine, with sweet floral notes that add lift to the dark raspberries, cherries and red plums. This is a very strong showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.