|a region full of manipulated, corporate wines and junk juice comes the brilliant, natural, certified organic wines of Sébastien Riffault. This domaine, founded in 2004, is trying to change what is possible in the region. He makes several interesting wines, some of them bordering on the challenging, in order to show what he feels are the best characters of his terroir. Les Quarterons Sancerre is the most approachable wine in the range. Steel fermented and filtered lightly with a little dose of sulfur only at bottling, it's almost a classic. There are several factors in how this wine is made that really make it unique: It is produced from organic grapes, grown in hand-worked vineyards that are plowed with a horse and are not treated with herbicides or pesticides, and the grapes are harvested in late October. All of this creates a brilliantly individual wine with a really tasty set of flavors.