It is the location that is classed as Grand Cru, so red or white (assuming the AOC is in place), if the grapes come from Musigny the resulting wine is entitled to the Musigny label. Robert Parker (Burgundy, 1990) wrote that the Chardonnay vines of Musigny were "planted at the request of the late Comtesse de Vogüé"; at the domaine today there is no direct evidence of that, or an exact planting date, but what is sure is that there was definitely a white Musigny produced as early as the 1930's, so the Comtesse would have been quite young. Today 'only' a Bourgogne Blanc is produced, but potentially this is the only Grand Cru white from the Côte de Nuits; Clive Coates notes that in the the nineteenth century it was also possible to find Chambertin Blanc but the vines were already gone when AOC rules were introduced in the 1930's. This white wine is made from Chardonnay vines sited, in two plots, right at the top of the Musigny vineyard. Because there is no such AOC as Chambolle-Musigny Blanc (villages or 1er Cru) if the Musigny Grand Cru label is not used, it follows that the wine must be declassified all the way down to Bourgogne.
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The 2012 Bourgogne Blanc has been produced since 1994 from the young vines that were planted in the grand cru, planted between 1986 and 1997. Taken from cask, which had just been racked, it has a gras bouquet with scents of honeysuckle, custard creams and spices. It is well defined and very complex. The palate is very intense with lemongrass and shaved ginger on the entry. It immediately reminds me of a fine white Chateauneuf-du-Pape with an exuberant, pithy, spicy finish that you will not forget in a hurry.
|Like all great white wines, this Bourgogne Blanc deserves to accompany the best fish and shell fish dishes, such as lobster or crabmeat in a light wine sauce, salmon, trout or Dover sole simply grilled or poached. The wine should be served no colder than 13°C (57°F).