|Theirs is a deceptively simple approach to the production of high-quality, affordable sparkling wine. First, they insist on using only the finest grapes from carefully tended vineyards. Next, they generate a firm bubble using the Methode Traditionnelle (a highly labor-intensive bottle-fermentation process). The wines acquire a distinctive mousseux due to the use of yeasts indigenous to the classical Champagne region in France. The dosages are typically prepared with local sweet wines. For Szigeti, the process of Methode Traditionnelle must not trump the integrity of the fruit. In other words, the dominant perfumes and flavors of the wines should be of the varietal, and should not be masked at all by the yeasty, fermentative flavors of secondary fermentation in bottle. Though such a goal is often in place in the production of still wines, it is surprisingly unusual in the production of sparkling wine. As a test of this philosophy, Szigeti crafts sparkling wine from a dozen different varietals and the hallmark of each is varietal expression. There is no better example of the strength of this philosophy than the Gruner Veltliner Brut.