Domaine Michel Lafarge, dating back to the early 19th century, produces some of Burgundy's most precise and penetrating wines. From their base in Volnay - a neat but unpretentious house in a quiet backstreet hiding some splendid 13th-century cellars - Michel and his son Frederic tend to and vinify the produce of just short of 10 hectares of vineyards, over half of them in Volnay. The vineyards have always been cared for in the most natural and traditional manner, with the utmost respect for their terroir. When replacement of vines is necessary, grafts of existing old vines of the Domaine are always used so that the unique "selection massale" is maintained. The entire Domaine was converted to biodynamic farming in 2000 - a natural progression of the Lafarge philosophy which aims to improve harmony between the soil, the vines and the people who cultivate them. The Lafarge wines are characterized by a finely-tuned combination of refinement and structure. Whatever the vintage, their balance and individuality is always evident.
| Wine Advocate 88 points (Jun 2010)
Ripe plum and red fruit aromas – with their distilled shadows – as well as ocean spray in the nose of the Lafarge 2008 Beaune Greves presage its palate of tart fruit, saline minerality, and piquancy of fruit pits. High-toned hints of leather as well as estate-atypical vanilla from the (admittedly small) share of new wood point toward the likelihood that this wine’s fruit is not nearly so robust as that of the majority of its siblings. Furthermore, there is a bit of gum-numbing astringency in an otherwise invigorating finish of this 2008, one I’d recommend either enjoying within the next couple of years, or else cellaring very watchfully. The Lafarges insist this came from entirely healthy, promisingly ripe and flavorful fruit, and perhaps it will show better in a year or so, though I see no reason (given it hasn’t been racked much less bottled) to suppose that such improvement will come short term. “A Beaune cru,” insists Michel Lafarge, “always lacks the youthful charm and elegance of a Volnay and is harder to define early-on.”