| Wine Advocate 87 points (Aug 2012)
Barrel-fermented without inoculation and with what Jesse Lange considers “responsible use of French wood, including a lot of (500- or 600-liter) puncheons,” but with at most 15-20% undergoing malo-lactic conversion, his 2010 Chardonnay Three Hills Cuvee originates in Freedom Hill Vineyard, Durant Vineyard, and the Lange estate. Fresh apple and pear without excessive malic tartness offer a juicy fundament against which the creaming effect of lees; lanolin, vanilla and resin from oak; and fruit pit piquancy offers satisfying counterpoint. This is considerably nicer than many efforts in a similar direction that have struck me as awkwardly bifurcated between green apple and caramel. But I don’t find it seductive or compellingly complex; and I doubt that bottle age will bring significant additional intrigue to a wine that’s simply very open and delightfully accessible today.