Katarina Prüm’s 2020 Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett AP #10 is truly a beautiful and utterly classical example of its Prädikat. The refined bouquet wafts from the glass in a complex blend of apple, tart pear, wild yeasts, a lovely base of slate, spring flowers and just a whispery of savory tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, vibrant and zesty, with beautiful filigree and mineral undertow, excellent acids and grip and a long, seamlessly balanced and perfectly focused, complex finish. Utterly classic. 2022-265+
The 2020 Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett offers an aromatic bouquet of fully ripe fruit and crushed stones. Round and mouth-filling on the palate, this is a hedonistic Kabinett with very fine, mineral acidity. Just a dessert on its own. 8% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 26 21 in July 2022. Prüm's 2020s are without exception narrative Rieslings, shaped by their respective origins, which to taste always means pleasure and even relaxation but never real work. It will certainly not be easy for the 2021s to outdo the partly grandiose 2020s once these show fascinating clarity, finesse and elegance. Even Dr. Manfred Prüm, probably not a man of praise, had to admit at the end, "That was a highly enjoyable wine tasting; that's how I like it!" He wanted to explicitly praise his daughter Katharina for the 2020 vintage, but at the subsequent lunch he preferred to devote himself and us to two wines from the archive. Thank goodness Prüm wines speak for themselves anyway, so who needs praise?
James Suckling 93 points
Bright nose of apples, white peaches and spring flowers with a touch of blackcurrant. Ripe, yet very sleek and straight, this is barely off-dry, thanks to the very crisp acidity at the super-refreshing finish. Drink or hold.
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