The 2020 Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese offers a remarkably coolish, very bright, precise and delicate nose of very fine Riesling fruit and flinty slate aromas. Saline, perfectly round and refined on the palate, this is a filigreed but lush and oh-so-delicate and airy, virtually celestial Himmelreich with crystalline, highly delicate acidity. This is a pristine, light yet long and saline, incredibly frisky and elegant Mosel Spätlese whose clarity and finesse is mind-blowing. An incomparable beauty. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine from AP 02 22 in July 2022. Prüm's 2020s are without exception narrative Rieslings, shaped by their respective origins, which to taste always means pleasure and even relaxation but never real work. It will certainly not be easy for the 2021s to outdo the partly grandiose 2020s once these show fascinating clarity, finesse and elegance. Even Dr. Manfred Prüm, probably not a man of praise, had to admit at the end, "That was a highly enjoyable wine tasting; that's how I like it!" He wanted to explicitly praise his daughter Katharina for the 2020 vintage, but at the subsequent lunch he preferred to devote himself and us to two wines from the archive. Thank goodness Prüm wines speak for themselves anyway, so who needs praise?
95 Points John Gillman:
Katarina Prüm’s 2020 Graacher Himmelreich is a beautifully filigreed and absolutely classically-styled bottle of Spätlese. The wine is built for the long haul in this vintage, with a great girdle of acidity and mineral undertow that promises a very, very long life in bottle. The bouquet is still quite youthful, offering up scents of apple, pear, salty slate minerality, bee pollen, spring flowers, lilacs and violets. On the palate the wine is pure, medium-full and beautifully filigreed, with a lovely core, superb transparency and bounce, bright acids and a very, very long and promising finish. This is more refined and lighter on its feet than the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese, but equally youthful and will deserve some extended cellaring. It will be pure magic once it is truly ready to drink! 2028-2075.
The concentrated and almost enveloping peach and apricot fruit, together with the racy acidity and the enormous herbal and mineral freshness, make this a dazzling Spatlese. Very pure finish, with a delicate note of floral honey, but only a hint of sweetness. Drink or hold.